(1) 1. Ruins of Sacramento, Oct. 5, 1852* *[Note: the Great Sacramento Fire took place in November 1852, despite Winchell having dated the letter Oct. 1852.] My Dear, Dear Mother I am writing this letter under circumstances of the strangest character. The most awful and terrific event that I ever witnessed or imagined, has just transpired, and I am still laboring to a certain extent under the influence of the excitement that it caused. Sacramento, the proud & beautiful city, which for the past two years has been my home, and of whose beauty and prosperity I have so often written you with feelings of pride and gladness, is no longer in existence!! Literally, it has been blotted out: -- swept from the face of the Earth – leaving nothing to commemorate its former existence but its name – the firm and solid ground on which it stood, and a wide-spread chaotic mass of scorched and blackening ruins. Nothing that I ever read of the sacking of cities by a victorious and ruthless soldiery, or of the devastations of earthquakes or the most desolating tornadoes, ever conveyed to my mind any image of the terrors of last Tuesday night. It had been the day of the Presidential Election and political excitement reigned supreme. Tired out with the tumult, I retired to my office and threw myself upon my bed without undressing. A friend soon came in and (2) we conversed until eleven. We noticed then that the wind which had all day been blowing strongly from the N.W. had risen to almost a gale; but the election was the all absorbing topic as I was myself a candidate. Suddenly a tumultuous shout rose on the night wind, born from the heart of the city. I supposed it to be the huzzas of the balloting, -- the announcement of which we were awaiting; but the instantaneous clang of an alarm bell ringing above the tumult, sent a thrill of horror to my heart. We sprang to the door and already – so rapid were the flames, a bright light with their columns of smoke was rising above the roofs, about half a mile distant, directly to the windward of my office. The alarm spread like lightning. In 100 (10) seconds, a thousand men went rushing madly through the streets, toward the flashing light shrieking the alarming words, Fire! Fire! Fire! Then the fire alarm-bell of the Sacramento Engine House, thundered out its sonorous peals, waking the sleeping citizens far and near, to a sense of their danger. Soon the clattering engines swept in quick succession down the streets, dragged by hundreds of wild & excited men – and right and left on every side, the shouts and cries rose higher and wilder till it seemed as though all the fiends in Pandemonium had been let loose. But it was not without cause: for in a much (3) shorter space than I have occupied in writing this, the lurid flames were darting their fiery tongues to the sky, and fastening in rapid and fatal swoops, upon all surrounding objects. The glittering stars and calm, blue sky were shut out by a dense canopy of smoke that lifted itself on high, like a huge, black pall, spangled with myriad of bright sparks that swept onwards and onwards in a fierce and endless shower[.] Even while I gazed, momentarily fascinated by the awful sublimity of the rising conflagration, the towering dome of the Crescent City Hotel, (one of the largest in the city) glittering with intense light in strong relief against the darkened sky, kindled into a blaze; -- a moment, and a thousand fiery tongues laughed & played in fatal, fantastic forms around it from the base to the lofty Crescent which surmounted it; -- another, & it was a lurid mass of fire, falling upon the roof and enkindling with the rapidity of thought, the whole body of the vast structure. Then I saw that no power, save the hand of the Almighty, could avert the destruction of the whole city, and I turned to save the contents of my office. James Mahan had been lying in my bedroom seriously sick with bilious fever for two or three days and was scarcely able to sit up. But he rose & with my assistance dressed himself, and was in readiness to fly. Throwing my most valu- (4) -able books and papers into a trunk, and rolling up my bedding and clothing, I was but a few minutes in getting them to the door. But in those few minutes the flames had advanced with the most astonishing strides. They broke out on the North side of J street between 3rd and 4th -- thus, (hand-drawn map showing distance between house where fire began and E.C.W.’s office) but before my goods were all removed to the door, the fire had consumed the east half of the block between 4 and 5, and was breathing its hot breath upon my position at the corner of 6 and K. They had at the same time been spreading laterally westward and northward until a broad line of fire reached from I to K and driven onward by a wind which had risen almost to a hurricane, carried desolation and terror in its fearful footsteps. All hope of saving the buildings was now abandoned; for the fire companies could not stand a moment before the flames, -- being sometimes driven backward for more than a whole square, by the heat & stifling smoke. To blow up a sufficiency of those houses that were yet unattainable, in advance of the fire, was the only means left, and soon the heavy explosions that burst upon the ear announced that the firemen were at their duty. But it was only for a moment, that the sea of flame was checked. Borne on the wind, innumerable sparks, overleaped every vacant place[.] (5) 2. Kindling, in a thousand places at once, everything combustible upon which they fell. Within half an hour after the fire broke out, the City presented a scene, -- wild, terrific and sublime beyond all description. No representation, less vivid and faithful than a painting by Hogarth, could give you an adequate idea of the awful realities of that terrible night[.] The streams of human beings that had rushed down the streets towards the fire at first, now came hurrying back with thousands of others, in dismayed, panic-stricken & confused crowds. The streets were absolutely filled with the flying masses, bearing hasty burdens of their most highly prized effects. But anon came the rattling of wagons, drays loaded with merchandise which the merchants were, in the few moments left to them, dragging from their burning stores. On, on they came in an endless stream that grew wilder and more confused as the glowing fires drew near. The shouting of hundreds of frightened & irresolute men, the shrieks of helpless and unprotected women, the curses of the hurrying and impatient draymen & wagoners, the heavy tramp of horses’ hoofs, the incessant jar and rattling of wheels, but above all and around all, deadening all other sounds, the steady, sullen roar of the advancing flames, falling like (6) a ceaseless knell upon the ear, formed a scene of terror and dismay, that I hope I may never again be called upon to witness[.] I waited till the last moment in the hopes that the wind would drive the flames to the westward of my office but seeing it foredoomed to destruction, I dragged my trunk down the iron stairway that led to the pavement, from my balcony threw my bedding over the railing into the street, and let my chairs fall upon it. Then piling them against the leeward side of a huge oak, in 6th street, I returned to assist Mahan, & any one else, whom I could serve. Mahan was safe, & I made another trip with goods, to the oak tree. An empty wagon was standing near & a stranger proposed, that we should load it with the goods of several, and jointly drag it to a place of greater safety. No sooner said than done; it was very quickly full, and we put our selves at the wheels and rolled it slowly into L street. A man & his wife passed us on foot, -- she, with a young child in her arms – he, carrying a heavy trunk. It was too large – and he was exhausted & let it fall. She tried to help him with her child in her arms, but could not, & burst into tears. I supposed it held all, they had saved. There was room for it on our wagon where we placed it, and the husband helped to drag it along. Reaching L st. we followed it east, towards the plain back of the city, but our load was heavy and we could move but a few rods at a time. (7) A pile of rubbish in the street would have checked us entirely, but another wagon, driven by men came up and we united all our forces upon each one separately[.] We drew theirs over first, & instantly returned for ours; but though not yet more than 200 yds from my office, the smoke that swept across the road nearly stifled us and almost compelled us to leave our goods. Sparks flew in showers, and soon my straw bed was blazing merrily; but we fortunately extinguished it and by another effort our wagon was in a place of temporary safety at the corner of 7th & L sts, where we stopped to breath and look back. The wind was blowing a hurricane. Clouds of dust swept up the streets, and mingling with the smoke rendered it very difficult to breathe. The fires too, were raging with increasing fury, and the only thought of the multitude was for safety. As I looked back to my office, it was a mass of fire; but far above it, at the top of the Liberty pole which had just been erected near it, bravely streamed the folds of a Star Spangled Banner, now hid in clouds of smoke, now gleaming brightly as the lurid flames vainly flashed upward to devour it. And there it streamed through the dark hours of that fearful night, uninjured by the fiery tempest, until the hurricane’s fury tore it into a hundred shreds and enviously tangled them in knotted masses, a sad and humbling sight. (8) Taking breath we rolled our wagons two squares further on when I deemed them safe and left them to assist any one who needed help. Entering the house of a family with whom I was acquainted, I helped them remove their goods and furniture to a place of safety. As I was turning towards their house a young lady of my acquaintance, from Nantucket, passed me, running at the top of her speed down the street, towards the flames, entirely alone. Deeming her in great danger, I felt myself authorised to follow and over take her which I soon did. Her father was a merchant, doing a heavy business on J st. but he had not been at his dwelling house since the fire. She and her sister were the only inmates able to do anything towards saving their goods, and had actually packed 8 or 10 trunks full of clothing and light articles and with the aid of [a] friend who was passing, had carried them into the street. Having done all they could do, they abandoned the house to its fate and were seeking a place of safety when the younger one recollected some valuable article that had been left and was returning for it when I overtook her. Under her directions I ransacked the house from top to bottom but without success: the missing article could not be found. The flames were now so near that it was dangerous to remain longer, and although the house was strewed with valuable articles we were just leaving, when the father came in half frantic with anxiety. He had lost one of his stores, and in trying to save his (9) 3. goods, did not think of the approach of the fire to his dwelling, till he saw them threatening it. Finding his family safe, -- with my assistance the piano was dragged out and put on a dray that was passing. One or two mirrors, and some other light articles were brought out, and the happy house, was then abandoned to its fate. The wind blowing with the utmost fury, carried the fire through every part of the house, and in a very short space of time it was level with the ground. Seeing the young lady in a place of safety at the house of a friend on the N.E. outskirts of the city, I returned to assist others. It was now two o’clock in the morning, and the fires were still raging and roaring with unabated fury. I found that they had again approached my wagon so as to endanger it, and we rolled it on, till we reached 12th st. – a mile from the river. Here the houses were so scattering that there was but little danger, and I looked about again for those whom I might assist. I soon found a wagon loaded with house-hold furniture standing in the street, evidently abandoned or forgotten by its owners, and with a stranger to assist we dragged it to a place of safety. Two ladies soon came up claiming it as theirs, and thanking us for saving it. We drew it a little from the road, and left it in their possession, in the (10) midst of the cold and desolate plain, without any male protection to care for them. Their husbands were in the lower part of the city & like hundreds of others not aware of the rapidity with which the flames spread eastward. Of the progress of time during that night I had not definite idea. The moon which rose as the fire broke out, was now riding high in the azure heavens, occasionally gleaming through the murky clouds of smoke & dust. I had no time for other thought than that of assisting those who needed it. I soon met again the family whom I had first assisted. Their moveable effects had been placed on light wagons and dragged by hand to a spot near my own where they were safe. The dwelling had been at one time abandoned, but as if by a miracle it had escaped through the storm of fire until it had mostly swept by. With one or two others I went back, and we protected it from the flying sparks until the danger was past and the house was safe. But clouds of smoke yet interposed between the family and their home and it was impossible for them to return until the fires had burned lower. As I had been moving eastward continually during the night, I had had no opportunity of knowing the extent of the fire in the westward part of the city, along the river. (11) 4. As it had broken out three squares east of the river, and the wind blew steadily from the N.W. I had but little doubt the buildings on first, second and third streets, would be saved. Judge of my surprise then when the friend who was conversing in my office when the fire broke out, came up with the direful news that it had swept backwards with the utmost fury and consumed every building but two, on all those streets. The Fire Proof Banking House, stores and hotels, which were supposed to be invulnerable, had crumbled into ashes like shavings. A whole block of fire-proof stores on the south side of K. streets just finished in the most approved and beautiful manner and filled with goods, burned up as though they had been children’s toy houses. It was about this moment that a sight of thrilling interest flashed upon my eye. The Methodists had just erected a spacious and magnificent brick church – one of the finest buildings in the State. It stood on an elevation at the corner of 7 & L, and its lofty and elegant proportions were visible from every part of the city and for miles around. It was an ornament to the city and an honor to its architect. For a long time it stood uninjured and many a hope was expressed that it would escape. But a stray spark, set fire to the Baptist Church – a wooden structure on the opposite side of the street, -- and a shower (12) of fire swept against the wooden cupola of roof of this structure. But no visible effect followed and when the Baptist Church sank[?] and the flames were lessened, hopes revived. But suddenly a faint gleam of light flashed from the blinds of the cupola. Another moment and a bright blaze burst forth – soon it flashed broad and high – fastening upon the roof, spreading from one end to the other, until the proud edifice was mantled in ruddy robes of fire, that waved and flaunted upon the winds, in fierce and fatal glee. In half an hour roof, cupola & dome fell crashing to the earth, leaving but the scathed and desolate walls as monuments of its glory. As I stood with my friends on the plain east of the city and gazed westward, the scene was one of awful grandeur and terrible sublimity. The whole city was on fire. An area of nearly a mile in length by 1/3 and ½ a mile in width, was sending up to the seven heavens, rolling billows of fire of all hues, from dazzling white flames, to those of the most lurid, blood red cast, -- now half hidden by black, smoky columns, -- now gleaming forth anew with redoubled fierceness. The hurricane still continued, lashing this sea of fire into the wildest commotion and rendering the scene one that no pen can describe, no imagination can depict. (13) 5. Immediately around us were other scenes, no less striking. On every ride were wagons, drays and piles of goods, merchandise, household furniture etc, in undistinguishable confusion, which had, like mine, been driven before the flames into the plain. Men, women and children were running about in search of each other or of their property or mournfully sitting by their effects looking back with sad hearts and tearful eyes upon their burning houses, which no human power could save. My friends were comparatively fortunate. Though having in prospect, a chilly [?] for the rest of the night, they had still a home to return to in the morning; while ten thousand of their fellow citizens were houseless, homeless, penniless! – at sunset, rich, at midnight, wandering beggars! Such is human fortune! It was now 4 o’clock in the morning. For 5 hours the flames had been raging with unchecked fury and now, having nothing left within their reach to prey upon they began to sink away. Human effort could do no more, and bidding my friends “good night”, I found my way to my wagon, whence I dragged my bed, -- spread it on the ground, and wrapping myself in my blankets -- beneath the gleam of the vertical moon soon sunk into a sound and profound slumber. The sun was above the mountain tops when I was awakened by the tramping of a horse’s hoofs, and a friend rode up to my bed side. I arose and where the sun had the day (14) before dawned on a beautiful and flourishing city, it now gleamed sadly over smoking, blackened and desolate ruins, covering forty squares! Nine-tenths of the buildings were level with the ground, or presented nothing but scorched, broken and hideous-looking walls. Had a barrel of gunpowder been placed in each house, and all simultaneously fired, the destruction would not have been so fearfully complete. But I must close these sad details – though I have written but a tithe of what fell under my own observation. You will naturally be anxious to hear how the fire affected my own interests. Being a Candidate for office, my part of the expenses of the election had borne somewhat heavily upon my purse, and I awoke the morning after the fire with $1.25 of ready cash in my pocket. But I was in no danger of physical want, for I was made at once to feel at home at the house of my friend. I was most provoked at the news of the burning of the ballot-boxes, after it was known that the whigs had carried the city, -- thus rendering the election a nullity. But I could not long complain when there were thousands in worse condition. Octo. 15. The mail closes at 12 to day and I must finish this. The city is being rapidly rebuilt, and in one year more, will be more beautiful than ever! There is no doubt of this. (15) You cannot imagine the energy that Californians exhibit. One half of the burnt district is now covered with temporary houses and our merchants are doing more business than ever despite the terrible blow which has fallen. I am still boarding with my friends – a very pleasant and interesting family from Cincinnatti [sic] – and may do so all winter. Though I have been since the fire sleeping in a rude hut with no floor nor window – admitting wind and rain freely, yet my health is first rate, and my spirits at their usual notch. The morning after the fire when I learned that the ballots were burned, I had resolved to abandon the place and go to San Francisco. But I have now given that notion up – for the simple reason that the report was false – the ballots were saved and I have the pleasure of announcing that I was duly elected Justice of the Peace for the City & Township of Sacramento for the term of one year. The office is worth $4000 or $5000 per annum, and when I get over the immediate effects of the fire I hope to be in smooth water again. I took the constitutional oath two or three days ago, and am duly qualified already to act, but I shall do no business until a new building is finished in which I shall take office. This will be in a day or two; -- soon enough, -- for I haven’t schooled myself to look wise and important, yet – nor have I got used yet to the lofty soubriquet of “Judge Winchell”! (16) Now, dear Mother, I must hastily close. You will give yourself no uneasiness about me, for I have given myself none, at any time. I am afraid father will consider himself slighted, for I have not once mentioned his name in the whole of this, but he will not think that he is to be excluded from his share in it. I send him a Paper containing a diagram of the Burnt District and full account of the fire. Rens. has written me nothing since his marriage – whereat I have half a mind to be very indignant. But if he writes soon I shall forget the past, as he is partially excusable. I am disposed to complain of him, principally for that he has given me no introduction to our sister – but in the absence of his usual gallantry and attention, I shall consider myself authorised to send to her, through you, a brother’s greeting and high regard. I owe a letter or two to Joseph, and one to Homer, -- but I cannot do more than to make the acknowledgment at this time. I have left you in doubt about Mahan. He was separated from me during the confusion and I heard nothing of him for two days – when I learned that he had fortunately made his way to Mr. Hoyt’s, a few miles from the city, where he is doing well. I hope to hear from home often. My kindest remembrances to all; -- and to you Dear Mother the constant love of your affectionate son Elisha.