(front) [Addressed:] Mrs. Fanny M. Anderson Care of Thos. L. Anderson Palmyra Marion Co. Missouri [Postmarked:] Sacramento City Cal. Feb 18 (1) Sacramento City February 13th 1851 My Dearest Sister I have received but one letter from you since I have been in California, but that does not weigh an atom with me to prevent my writing to you; for I feel secure in the conviction that it is not any indifference but rather the want of leisure on your part that is the occasion of your silence. Until I am brought to believe that the fountain of kindness and true affection which you have ever manifested towards me is shut up nevermore to be opened it will be to me a source of deep delight and a privilege which I shall not lightly value to communicate with you, even through the unsatisfactory and tardy medium of the Post. My only regret is that I cannot hope to produce the same pleasure by my letters, that yours afford me. I would give a respectable "pile" just now to know what item of California affairs would most interest you. I know that although I have written a great many letters home, I have not made a commencement of the nightly task of giving a definite idea of the innumerable points of interest with which the country abounds; but the difficulty is, I am not able to realize your wishes, or even by guessing to ascertain the specific facts with reference to which you are most in doubt or about which your curiosity is most excited. I must therefore let fly my shaft "at a venture", hoping that if it does not kill a king, it will do something that may interest or amuse you for a time. Perhaps you would like to know of my first trip to San Francisco - the "New York of the Pacific" - which I deigned to honor with my (2) presence a few days ago. I had just returned from a professional jaunt of about forty miles up the Sacramento, in which I passed through a beautiful section of the valley and had my curiosity strongly aroused to see other portions of the State. Returning home I found business rather dull and nothing on hand that demanded my immediate attention, so at two o'clock, winding my way to the Levee I found at the foot of K Street the noble steamer New World just on the point of casting off her cables prior to turning her prow towards the waters of the "Bay". The bell ceased tolling and the heavy splash of the huge paddles announced that we were on our way. To attempt a sketch of the various classes of characters that composed her passengers would be almost useless. Like our population on land they were from "every nation under heaven". Representatives of the white race from the fairest Castilian, through every graduation of pale facedness down to individuals of that ambiguous dye which renders it doubtful to which side of the line between light and shade they belong and specimens of the darkest side of humanity ranging from the last described personages down, down, till the lines ended in a jet black, ink & charcoal biped with the long, straight, horse hair locks of a "Digger" or a South Sea Islander, or with the flat nose, the short, crispy, unmistakable wool of a genuine "Guinea Nigger". To specify with more particularity some of the individuals comprised in this vein there was the Kentucky hunter, with his tall straight form, keen quick eyes and embrowned features, dressed in linsey and leather & leaning on his rifle by the side of a group of Dutch, French or Spanish Jews. There was the real John Bull close alongside of his intimate friends and brethren, the Yankee and the (3) "celestial". There was the Irishman with his loquacious tongue & "emerald" brogue, discoursing to his companion of the delights of "[?] Ireland", and within earshot were a circle of Mexican gallants keeping up an incessant chatter with the fair "Senoritas". I call them fair because everybody does so and through respect to the sex, but truth to say, I have seen no Mexican ladies as yet that were not blessed with so much ugliness as they could conveniently walk under. They are all however possessed of that invaluable and delightful gift, call "gab" in an extraordinary degree. But I'm off the track. You have an idea of the nature & character of my fellow passengers - let me tell you where they were bound. The well dressed, genteel mustached gentlemen are professional gamblers. They live an easy, a merry and luxurious life, and in this country where gambling is no [hole in MS] do not attempt to conceal their occupation. They are on [their way] to the "palaces" & "salons" of San Frisco, or to the legislative [hole] of San Jose to practice for a time in a new field. Those merry faced, happy fellows that watch their baggage with so much care, are miners, bound for home, that Paradise on Earth --with their buckskin purses well filled with dust. Little do they care for the anxieties which torture some, or the golden visions which dazzle others of the heterogeneous crowd of which they form a part and yet are separate. Their profoundest thoughts are of the joys that await them in a reunion with those in a distant land, whose smiles are worth more than their heard-earned treasure. Yonder is a circle who brought with them on board the tools the shovels, picks & pan of the miner. They have been struck with the "Gold Bluff" excitement and are off for the ever receding, true El Dorado as fast as steam can carry them. (4) Here are merchants, some for New York & Philadelphia in search of merchandise of all kinds, others for Chile to bring up cargoes of flour & sugar, others for the South Sea Islands to supply us with potatoes, onions, beans, etc, while others again are bound for the gates of the Celestial Empire to drive some money making bargain with the "near relations of the Sun & Moon". The dialects of this mass of humanity are as different as their places of nativity, and the subjects of discussion among them are probably as various as the tongues in which they are discussed. But they have occupied my attention too long. Let us look abroad. The Sacramento is a beautiful river, -- winding smoothly and gracefully along through a rich valley and skirted with forest and copses which in the season of the most luxuriant foliage must be extremely beautiful. Here and there as we glided swiftly and almost noiselessly along, we passed the rude cabin and diminutive garden spot of some enterprising industrious squatter who was bravely doing his share of the great work of reducing the wilderness to cultivation and causing it to blossom as the rose. Occasionally too we met some noble and graceful vessel, slowly making her way up the stream with a rich cargo for our merchants, or passed others at anchor waiting for more favorable breezes. Five years ago this stream was silent and undisturbed. No human dwelling appeared along its bank save the rude huts of the "Diggers" or the scarcely less rude cottages of the Mexican, and no vessel rippled its placid waters save the light and fragile bark of the fisherman. Now, the ever increasing din of civilization, resounds through the forest from the rising till the setting sun, and the gently flowing waters are lashed into white crested waves and dashed furiously against the echoing shores by the plunging prows and ponderous paddle wheels (5) of "ocean steamers". I could not obtain a very fair view of the country back from the river, but it seemed to be a level and generally fertile valley extending nearly to the mountains, fifty or one hundred miles distant. I was most anxious to get a good view of the new "Port of Entry", Benicia, which threatens to become a rival of Sacramento, and which is said, by the way, to be a very beautiful, if not a very important place, but the sun set and darkness veiled the scene, about an hour before we reached it. I was still more desirous to see the new site chosen by our present Legislature for the capital of the State. It is on a beautiful slope that extends to the water's edge on the North side of the Sacramento which here widens into a miniature bay running in a westerly direction. As yet the ground is unoccupied, but soon will be, by the workmen on the public buildings. The land is generously donated to the State by a Mexican name Vallejo and the town is to bear his name, -- (pro. Val-ya-ho). He has also pledged himself to pay the princely sum of $400,000 towards the construction of the State Edifices. So we may expect to have a Capitol that will vie with that of any of the older states. The darkness prevented me from seeing this interesting spot. Thence to San Francisco we probably passed through the most delightful scenery on the trip but I lost it all and only went on deck when at ten o'clock the announcement was made that we were approaching the city. Soon we were in view of ten thousand lights glimmering in the distance and were cautiously threading our way among the shipping in the harbor, whose bare masts towering high in air on every side, formed almost a forest around us. At length we reached (6) the end of a long pier, -- built upon piles driven down in the mud - extending out over the waters of the bay for 1/4 of a mile. Here we were landed, having made the 160 miles which intervened between the two cities in about 8 hours. Anxious to improve every moment of my stay in this the center of the wealth and power of the "Eureka State", I walked about the principal streets until finding that but little was to be known of San Francisco in the night time. I sought lodgings determined to take with the sun the first glance at it in the morning. Accordingly I was out at an early hour. Wishing for a position whence I might take in the harbor with its mass of shipping and the city at a glance I climbed a high hill which rose on the north. You must recollect that San F. is not on the coast but is situated on the west side of San F. bay from which an outlet leads to the ocean ten or twelve miles distant. This outlet opens at the northern extremity of the city. I reached the summit of the hill; the sun was just rising and tinged the spires of the city and the masts of the shipping with a gorgeous golden hue. A fog was slowly floating over the scene, or the effect would have been much more striking. As it was, I was was [sic] so much occupied that I did not think of looking in any other direction. I turned around. To the north at the base of the hill was the outlet from the bay expanding into a broad and beautiful harbor. Following its course to the westward, I now for the first time observed that what I had taken to be a mass of vapor in the distance was the illimitable and boundless Pacific. To me the sight was deeply interesting. The innumerable events with which history has associated it, the deeds which have been performed upon its waters, the nations which line its shores all came to mind at once, and I only regretted (7) that I was compelled to enjoy the pleasure of the same alone. Yes! in a city of twenty five thousand souls, I knew no mortal with whom I could interchange the thoughts which this scene induced. I gazed till I was tired, -- thought of the ocean on the coast of which I was born, and of the long distance that I had travelled to obtain a first glimpse of "salt water"; - and I assure you did not forget the pleasant resting place in the valley of the Mississippi midway between the two oceans. I thought also of the fact that twelve years of my life were passed in the valley of the Connecticut, twelve years in that of the "Father of Waters", & wondered whether it was to be my lot to spend twelve years in the valley of the Sacramento. What do you think of it? But I became tired and wended my way down again into the busy streets, and then it was impossible to think of anything except that which was directly before me. When I got up, there was but little stir, -- now everything was full of life and commotion. The streets were crowded with drays, carts, waggons and vehicles of every description, each one of which was rattling along as if the existence of the city depended upon his speed. I entered the public square - the "grand plaza" - and strolled through the gambling houses which open their spacious doors to the public at all hours inviting the gamesters and all the rest of the world to enter and try their fortunes at Monte. They are the largest and finest rooms in the city and may literally be called palaces. Their decorations are very rich. Large and costly pictures adorn the walls, splendid chandeliers descending from the ceiling give the rooms at night the brilliancy of day, while music of the highest order tempts you when you would leave to tarry longer. This is a portion of the splendid machinery with which the professional gamesters work the ruin of the inexperienced. As yet our Legislature had made no move towards checking this evil, but it is to be hoped that they will do so this session. But there is nothing save these public establishments which render San F. very different from (8) sea board cities on the Atlantic side. And having satisfied myself with the "sights" I then thought of business. Entering the book store of Cook & Lecount I made such additions to my "Law Library" as my shallow purse and the high prices would permit. A copy of the statues passed at the Last Session, for instance, ranged at twenty dollars, but I took one that had been a little damaged at an [ounce?]. And other books were in proportion. This was a matter which I had long been anxious to attend to & I now felt comparatively rich. Dinner time passed - then 4 o'clock - the steamer's hour of departure quickly arrived. I had taken a good view of the city the harbor the innumerable vessels that crowded it, the steamboats at the wharf the U.S. troops that were just embarking for the southern mines to whip the saucy Indians, and was perfectly satisfied and willing to return. The last bale of freight was taken on, the plank hauled in the rope cast off, and the steamer slowly swung around turning her head homeward. Soon we were clear of the labyrinth in which the countless vessels confined us, and were dashing at a gallant rate across the smooth waters of the Bay toward the mouth of the Sacramento. I ascended the upper deck and as we passed the outlet into the ocean, turned my eyes toward the "golden gate" hoping to get a last glance at the waters of the Pacific. But my position was not enough elevated, and I was disappointed. Several vessels however were gracefully riding over the light waves of the bay and from the mast head of one about a mile distant floated the "White Cross of St George". I thought of England and that truly, "her home is on the deep". But night came on, and that too, long before we reached Vallejo, -- that is to be. Disappointed I turned in, and spite of dashing waves and rumbling machinery, was soon asleep. When I awoke, all was silent and the first rays of morning were entering the cabin window. We were at the wharf in Sacramento. [Note: this "crosses" what was previously written on page 9, and should be read after page 10] By this mail I send to Mrs Anderson a copy of each of the papers which are published in this city, and I hope they will give you some idea of matters and things in Cal. With regard to myself I like the country very much thus far - there is but one thing wanting - the absent and loved parents, brothers, sisters (plural) and friends. Were they here I should think of Mo. as I think now of China - that I should like to visit it if perfectly convenient and not otherwise. But I don't advise any body to come here unless they have got plenty of money and can come by the Isthmus or the city of Mexico on Tehuantepec. Please write me soon as you can find leisure upon the receipt of this. The mail steamer has now been due more than a week and nothing has been heard of from her. It is feared she is lost but I hope not. Give my love to JJ. You know whom that word includes and I will not specify. I often think of you all & wonder if I am remembered in return. Now, dearest sister, though loth so to do, I must bid you adieu for the present, -- until I can see you again, time rolls away slowly and drearily. Farewell. Be sure that my most fervent prayers are for your welfare & happiness and that only with the termination of existence will terminate the love and affection of your absent brother. Elisha (9) I will give you a word respecting myself. My health still continues most excellent. With the exception of a very slight headache and a day or two of sore throat, I have not had an hour's indisposition this winter. I am fleshy as a bear. I think the climate a very healthy one, in spite of the terrible mortality which prevailed last fall. That I think is not justly attributable to the climate but to numerous other causes. The weather this winter has been indescribably delightful. I wish you could have been here to enjoy it. You have often read of the "perpetual spring" of some certain localities. If we have not had a fair specimen of such weather this winter, I doubt whether it can be found upon the earth. According to the scientific observations of Prof. Blake of St. Louis, now in this city, our city of Sacramento is more favored in the respect than the "Eternal City" Rome, in the midst of Italian atmospheres. Farmers have been ploughing ever since the 1st of Jany and many have been planting gardens seeds. Even now, fresh vegetables are found in the city market. Three weeks ago, Mr. Dexter showed me radishes as large as my fingers, which had grown on their grounds. I think I have written that Mr Glover went to San Jose (pro. Ho-zay) (I must learn you to talk Spanish when I get back) -- early in December. He expected through Cook Campbell's influence to get a clerkship with Legislature but found it not worth his acceptance. His bro. Samuel has written to him to come home & practice in St Louis, and he has resolved to do so. He has not made a cent to take back but has been getting in debt and will have to borrow his passage money. I think before I do thus, my bones will repose beneath the sands of the Sacramento. He wrote me something about Cook which I will repeat as it may be interesting to you, -- leaving you to judge whether it should go any further. "Campbell is to be married sure enough in a short time to a Mexican "Grezireta". I have not seen her but she is said to be very beautiful and wealthy, -- Cook seems to be perfectly enchanted. In fact, he is not to be called an American any longer. He has great prepossessions for Greserism any how! He is down on the Americans and his associations are very much Mexican, and will be more so after his nuptials. Another secret. It is an ecclesiastical law which I have learned in Mexico and is the same wherever the Catholic Church has a foothold that no foreigner or protestant can join in wedlock a catholic subject without first being baptised or christened by the Priest. To obtain his fair object, Cook has taken these requisite steps and attends scrupulously the Catholic Worship. This act of Campbell's has taken place where society has no force. To have taken such a step in the States would have required a little more moral courage than Cook possesses."